The Crones' Chronicle

The epi-center of the quake struck about 70 miles from our place north of San Felipe. It was pretty frightening. We don’t know the official times, but, we could swear it lasted at least a minute plus. We were visiting our friend, Millie, over in the electric section of El Dorado Ranch when it hit. At first we thought the winds were picking up again from off of the mountains. Then, things began to shake, sway, and heave up and down. Buildings and electrical poles heaved back and forth and up and down. We are in a sparsely populated area, and the buildings are all single level. So, we didn’t experience the devastation felt in Mexicali and surrounding communities. Our place was fine. Here is a video taken at about the epicenter of quake by some people who happened to be traveling north on highway 5 when it hit. Pretty amazing footage.

George stopped by today to give us the bad news.  He was approximately 50 miles out from the finish line, going through deserted stretch of a  rocky canyon just south of San Felipe when he broke a stump axle on the passenger side.  He left his relief driver with the car to keep vandals from picking it dry, while he flagged down a kid on an ATV to drive him back to one of the ham radio operator stations so he could contact Belinda and the rest of his crew.  This was at about 4:30 in the afternoon.  With help from volunteers hanging out at the race, he was able to get the Cholla drug onto the back of another vehicle.  Then, very slowly, they made their way some 20 miles out to the main highway.  He said it was close to midnight before they got back home.  Needless to say, George was not a happy camper.  He told us that he thought he’d gotten most of the bugs worked out of the car during last year’s Baja 1000.  So, he was disappointed but quite philosophical about going back to the drawing board to make another set of improvements.

All of us who volunteered to pit for him wish him the best of luck.  If the universe allows it, we’ll all be back to cheer him on at this year’s 1000 in November….and/or next year’s 250 in March.  Good job George!

Baja 250 course map

March 14, 2009 Morelia Junction west of El Dorado Ranch, San Felipe, Mexico

By 9 am, both rails were loaded and west bound on Saltito Road headed for Morelia Junction and our pit assignment.  In addition to George’s extra tire and miscellaneous pieces of scrap metal for Dennis the welder, we were loaded down with chairs;tools;water; ice chests filled with munchies, beer, and pop; tarps for shade; and, an assortment of hats, lotions, jackets, bandanas, and miscellaneous protective gear. We opted to leave all of the dogs at home for this little adventure.  Too hot, too dusty, too many people, and, too loud.  [So, why, uh, were we doing it?] Our neighbor, Marge/Meg, had decided to join us.  She climbed in with Lynda and Sharron.

This is not a bad photo. This shows you how thick the dust and sand would get!

As Sharron had predicted, what we affectionately call “power line road,” was mobbed with local fans. Power Line serves as one of the routes for the Baja 250 course. The  junction where Power Line crosses over Saltito and Zoo Roads are a particularly favorite spot among the locals. An easy 7 miles north of the town of San Felipe, fans love to congregate here.  Hundreds of old, Baja-weary cars lined both sides of the road.  Some with drivers struggling to dig themselves out of the sand.  If there is one thing Mexicans on the Baja do extremely well, it’s get themselves unstuck from sand.  At first you’ll see a big display of machismo as sand goes everywhere.  Then, when the more patient and reasoned side of the individual emerges,  some air is released from the tires and the cars are gently rocked back and forth until they are freed.

Michelle Bruckmann, one of two women drivers. Her pit crew shared an area with us.

Lisbeth and I watched a semi loaded with bricks for our patio get himself unstuck from our driveway.  It took him about 20 minutes, but, he did it. And, he didn’t tear up the driveway. We were totally impressed.

Although there is a “crossing guard” at the Power Line road junction, it’s pretty much cross at your own risk.  Two lanes of traffic merge into one as drivers attempt to avoid pedestrians hauling children and coolers.  All the while, hoping that no off-road-racer will come careening down on top of them from out of nowhere.

The Zoo Road leading to Morelia Junction is dirt, sand, rocks, and lots of washboards.  Although our top speed along here was probably no more that 30 mph, in an open vehicle, it feels like you’re doing 50.  George had warned us that, although we’d be traveling to a less popular viewing spot for the locals, we would still encounter chase cars and other traffic.  And, he was right.  There was quite a bit of traffic going both ways and the usual accompanying amounts of dust and flying sand.  Lisbeth and I have tons of bandanas.

Baja pits--all vehicle support group

Unfortunately, we had not brought any of them with us on this trip.  Thanks to Sharron and Lynda, we were able to prevent breathing and swallowing the entire desert floor.  Visibility is also poor.  Consequently, you drive with full lights and your rear desert hazard light on.  You pray people can see you.

About 5 minutes into the drive, Lynda pulled over and Sharron immediately jumped out and ran around to look at the rear end.  Something had dropped off of their muffler and they had heard a clunk followed by an occassional backfire.  After a cursory inspection and a listen to the engine, they concluded that whatever it was, it wasn’t going to hurt them on this trip.  We all climbed back into our rigs and continued on.  Ten minutes later, we began to see another line up of cars, RVs, EZ-up tents, pit crew trucks.  We located Dennis and his Itasca motor home and dropped off the scrap metal.  He gave us some general information about the area and where we might set up.  We found a flat spot in between a couple of other pitters just before the racers make their turn to head out on to the flats.  In no time, we were set up and ready for George.  It was 10 am.  George wasn’t taking off until 11 a.m. He wasn’t expected to arrive at our check point until 1:30 or 2 pm.  So, nothing to do but check out the surroundings, watch the racers coming by and eat….and, drink.

March 11, 2009 Pete’s Camp, San Felipe, BC, Mexico

Pit crew meeting with Snarlin' Cholla driver, George Jackson

We met over to George and Belinda’s place this afternoon to get instructions, directions, and gear we would be responsible for having ready for George on Saturday.  We’ll be stationed just up from what’s commonly called “Morelia Junction,” or, “the place in the road where there’s a dead cow.”  There really is a dead cow hide at this point in the road, it’s been there for a long while, and, everyone knows what you’re talking about when you make reference to it.  In fact, that’s how people give directions down here.  You need to be very observant to your surroundings.  Road signs either don’t exist, or, they mean nothing because no one pays any attention to them.  You are most likely to hear, “go down to the roundabout with all of the trees and turn left when you see the yellow building,” or, “take the dirt road that heads towards the mountains, then, when you see the old man cactus on the left side of the road, turn into the arroyo and follow it for a few miles.”  At first, it’s startling and confusing.  But, after a few times of getting lost and MAKING yourself pay attention to your surroundings, it begins to make sense.

Snarlin' Cholla getting worked on for Saturday's Baja250 off-road-race.

Lisbeth and I will be “pitting” with Lynda and Sharron, Dennis the welder, and Dave the radio man.  The four of us gals will bring our sand rails and be responsible for transport if it’s needed.  And, we’ll have a tire, metal for Dennis, and miscellaneous extra tools in the event of a break down.  George suggested that we cross the power line road on Saltito around 9 or 10 A.M. Any later, and he felt the crowds and the big off-road trucks and vehicles would make it impossible to get across.  He said he would be starting the race at around 11 AM and hoped to make Morelia Junction between 1 and 2 PM. We picked up our maps and miscellaneous things, wished George good luck and came home to share the information with Sharron and Lynda who weren’t able to make it.

View from George and Belinda's back deck

March 12, 2009 San Felipe, BC, Mexico

Rotary Club Steak in the Park and Silent Auction

Every year, the Rotary Club hosts a “Steak in the Park/Silent Auction.”  We have never attended until this year, when our friends, Sharron and Lynda, insisted we join them.  As with most San Felipe food/charity events, it’s important to show up early in order to get a table and beat the crowds in the lines.  This year, the truck bringing the tables and chairs went to the wrong address and was late  getting to the park.  So, we all had a good laugh, got a beer, looked at the auction items, and waited around for the truck to arrive.  Lynda and Lisbeth made sure they were at the head of the table and chair line, while Sharron and I took our turn at seeing what was available at the silent auction tables.

Sharron, Lynda, and Lisbeth chow down

By the time we got our table, it was time to stand in line for the steaks, baked potatoes, BBQ beans, and Tecate beer.  The steak was actually pretty good!  By 2:30 all of the auction tables were starting to close.  We all had made way more bids than we should have on stuff we really didn’t need (or, want).  But, it all goes to good causes.  The Rotarians are very active in everything from helping at the local school to generating funding for the local hospital.  In the end, Sharron and Lynda made off like bandits with several bottles of wine from the Baja wine country and…from, uh, Canada? We got, of all things, a water tank.  Just what every Baja resident needs! As well as some good Tequila and, for Lisbeth (who else?), a set of Oil of Olay things.  As usual, we had a wonderful time surrounded by friends and this great community.

Sharron and Lynda with their booty from the silent auction

Linda and Lisbeth with their water tank!

March 2, 2009 Playa de Oro, North of San Felipe, BC, Mexico

Snarlin' Cholla Fundraiser

This afternoon we joined our friends Lynda, Sharron, Woody, and Arlene at the Snarlin’ Cholla Racing fundraiser.  On March 14, San Felipe will host the SCORE Baja 250 off-road race.  Since our arrival, we have fostered a good friendship with Snarlin’ Cholla driver, George Jackson, and his girlfriend, Belinda Eastman.  Entry fees for this event are expensive.  Thus, the need for a fundraiser.  George and Belinda and the Snarlin’ Cholla team put together a BBQ and cash bar at Playa de Oro development overlooking the Sea of Cortez to raise money for entries, parts, etc.  It was very well attended, with over 200 American, Canadian, and Mexican supporters showing up. (Photos courtesy of Sharron Crowley, http://www.c2cadventures.wordpress.com)

The Snarlin' Cholla Number 1401

The Snarlin' Cholla Car

February 28, 2009 Las Minitas, South of San Felipe, BC, Mexico

SFAR shade pavillion for the dogs in the summer

There are two major animal related service organizations here in San Felipe.  The oldest of the two organizations is the San Felipe Animal Rescue.  Within the last three years a second organization has come onto the scene: ZAPP (Zero Animal Pupulation Growth).  Our understanding is that originally these two groups attempted to coordinate their efforts (even though they apparantly don’t share a common philosophy).  ZAPP is dedicated to spaying and neutering every dog and cat they can in the San Felipe area.  They believe that, in so doing, they will eventually eliminate stray and un-wanted dogs and cats in the area.  Initially, they would go into an area and capture strays to spay and neuter.  Their work with the locals has been so successful that people are now beginning to bring animals to them for this service.  They conduct clinics every two weeks.  With the help of volunteer vets from Mexicalli and the US, and, under the supervision of a local Mexican veterinarian, they spay or neuter up to 50 dogs and cats in every clinic.  ZAPP also believes that once the animal has been spayed or neutered, they should be treated for any other ailments and released back into the environment from which they originated.

Baja puppy waiting to be adopted

SFAR (San Felipe Animal Rescue), on the other hand, was created as both a sanctuary and an adoption center for the strays in San Felipe. They are a no-kill facility.  Somehow the the two organizations managed to work together and maintain somewhat separate fundraising strategies.  Recently, however, SFAR lost it’s major donor.  And, the two organizations have decided their political differences are just too insurmountable to continue any cooperative ventures.   SFAR decided to throw a Hoe Down BBQ Benefit to help raise much needed funding for their organization.  Needless to say, Lisbeth and I, along with friends Lynda, Sharron, Woody, Arlene and many others were more than happy to attend and contribute.  We were very impressed with what they have been able to create out of a virtual wasteland.  The dogs in their care appeared well fed and cared for under the circumstances. Veterinary services equal to the services we are used to in the States are scarce or non-existant.  So, it’s a miracle that these dogs are in as good a shape as they are. Here are a few photos of the event.  We’ve also included a video produced by SFAR explaining their mission.  Please take a few minutes and watch it.  Then,  find a moment to go to their web site at http://www.sfanimalrescue.org to make a donation.

February 22, 2009 San Felipe, BC, Mexico

Lynda, Lisbeth, and Sharron on the Malecon waiting for the parade

Every year during carnival time, visitors and locals can expect to be entertained by the San Felipe Carnival Parade.  We are guessing that this year’s theme was “sea world.”  The parade usually occurs on Saturday, Sunday, and Tuesday.  It can begin any time between two and four in the afternoon, depending on who you talk to.  This year we were told that the parade wouldn’t happen on Sunday.  We decided to go into town anyway and take our chances.  We had a drink on the Malecon (the main street that runs along the beach) and at about 3:30 decided nothing really was going to happen, so decided to walk around downtown before going home.  Jus t as we were about to get to the car, we noticed floats lining up for the parade.

Girl

As usual, we were not disappointed.  The children’s routines were delightful.  And, the music was particularly loud and rousing.  Here were some of the things we saw and heard. Since we weren’t able to catch it on the Malecon, this year we give it four tortugas.

Watch and hear a bit of the parade:

San Felipe Carnival Parade 2009

February 22, 2009 San Felipe, BC, Mexico

Our Canadian friends, Sharron and Lynda, arrived just in time for San Felipe’s annual Paella and Tequila Tasting Festival at the Hotel El Cortez.  This was Lisbeth’s and my first time at this event.  Consequently, it was good to have Lynda and Sharron back in town to show us the ropes.  A few of our “hermanas del desierto” went in early to snag a table big enough for all of the hermanas.  When we arrived, a long line had already formed at the entrance.  On the way in we got to see about five or six of the paella cooks putting the finishing touches on their paellas.  We were also treated to the tunes of a Mexican DJ and a fantastic view of the Sea of Cortez.  The place was packed with several hundred Mexican locals and American ex-pats.

We got our paella and drink tickets and found our table just in time to stand in another line for margaritas, tequilla, and beer.  We each received tickets to sample two of the paellas being offered in competition.  Lisbeth decided on the two paellas she wanted to sample,  while I wandered around and chose my two.  Our plan was to bring back our stash of food and share it.  What we discovered was that you had to make your selections fairly quickly, or, be faced with yet another long line.  And, if you weren’t lucky enough to be at the front of the line, you risked not getting any paella at all!

Many of you know that I’ve been making paella for years.  And, if I do say so myself, I can do a pretty mean job of it.  So, having the opportunity to see and taste other people’s versions was great fun.  Sometimes the results were terrific, and, sometimes pretty awful!  But, the entertainment and surroundings more than made up for anything that wasn’t quite up to snuff.

We’ll definitely be back for seconds! We give this event FIVE TURTLES!